Pick the eyes

Search for 30mm doll eyes. They do not need to be the exact pair shown, but the size matters.

Remove the fur screws

Unscrew the battery compartment, remove the batteries, then remove the eight screws holding the fur down.

Unhook the tail

The tail is connected by a small fabric hook that triggers the tail button. Unhook it carefully before pulling the fur further away.

Release the ears and tabs

Remove the ears, then peel back the fur to reach the plastic ear tabs. The two closest tabs can be released with a long narrow tool through the hole.

Protect the foil sensors

Carefully peel back the tape around the shell. Remove as little as possible because the foil strips are touch and petting sensors.

Remove the back shell

Remove the plastic pieces around the ears and the four screws holding the back shell in place.

Disconnect the side wiring

On the speaker side, remove the marked screws and unplug the speaker. On the other side, unplug the home button, encoder, and motor cables.

Free the front shell

Once the front shell is loose, remove the front screws and unplug the test-mode switch. Furby Boom shells tend to come away easier than 2012 shells.

Unhook the mouth

The mouth hook holds the front assembly in place. This can be awkward; a small screwdriver helps push the hook up without forcing it.

Remove the eye assembly screws

Turn over the PCB and remove the five screws holding the LCD eye assembly.

Choose lit or unlit eyes

For light-up eyes, remove the glass and pink plastic strips but leave the white LCD backing/backlight layer. For unlit eyes, you can unplug the LCD cables too.

Fit the new eyes

Remove the clear plastic eye cover, place the doll eyes into position, line everything up, and screw the front LCD eye holder back on.

Reverse the steps to reassemble. Rehook the mouth, reconnect every sensor and plug, put the front ear tabs back before closing the shell, and remember the tail hook.